AAFTA Field Target Primer
by John Clark
Reprinted from the Beeman Precision Airgun Guide
September 7, 1980. The Russians were in Afghanistan. The country feared for the safety of the American hostages held captive in Iran. As the world was closely watching these events unfold, those involved in the shooting sports remember that infamous fall day as the birth date of the sport of field target shooting. Field Target shooting is a hunting simulation game. Matches are shot with magnum powered, ultra accurate airguns and the targets are life-sized silhouettes of typical airguns quarry - rabbits, squirrels, birds, and other small game.
The sport was born on a typical autumn day in Sussex, England. Despite the frigid, blustery conditions, over 100 shooters from all over the southern regions of the United Kingdom banded together to try their hand at the new game. The rules at the first match were deceptively simple; estimate the distance to the target, correct the scope settings to compensate for the trajectory of the lead airgun pellet, and shoot at a paper target stuck to the animal.
Today, the rules remain just as simple, but the participants are aided by technological breakthroughs undreamed of only a decade ago. There are thousands of enthusiastic airgunners participating in this sport from all four corners of the globe, but the hot bed of activity still remains in the United States and Great Britain.
Modern field targets are constructed from a heavy gauge steel, cut out of a solid sheet to represent a life-sized silhouette of typical small game that can be hunted with an airgun. These animals have a hole cut out in the appropriate "kill-zone", and a paddle with a bright orange disc fills the space behind this hole. The shooter's objective is to aim directly for the center of this disc; a direct hit will cause the paddle to rotate backwards and the entire animal will fall over "dead" with a satisfying clank. A miss will do nothing but cause grief for the shooter.
The modern competition target are designed so that only a direct hit will cause them to fall; a "split pellet", one striking both the edge of the steel target and the "kill zone" will not cause the target to fall. These animals can be easily reset by pulling the attached string. The size of the "kill zone" was originally two inches in diameter, but as the shooters became more proficient in the sport, and the equipment used increased in sophistication, the size was reduced to make for more challenging courses. In today's championship matches, it in not uncommon to see targets with a "kill zone" as small as 1/4 of an inch, leaving little margin for error.
Targets are placed at random distances from 10 yards out to a maximum of 55 yards; one of the challenges facing a shooter is to accurately estimate the range from the firing line to the target. Today's courses set the target animals in environments representative of their natural habitat. Many courses are laid out so that some of the birds may be up in trees, rabbits hiding in bushes, and squirrels "feeding" in the clearing across a stream bed. The only rule pertaining to target placement is that the "kill zone" must be completely visible to the shooter in at least one of the shooting positions, although it does not necessarily have to be the one preferred by the competitors!
Each time the target is hit and falls over scores one point; misses count for nothing. Targets are placed in lanes with one to three animals in each lane. These lanes are marked by posts to the right and left; Competitors must keep the muzzle between these posts at all times when on the firing line, a rule that turns some seemingly simple shots into ones that truly challenge the skills. A competitor may use any shooting position they desire, but the majority use the sitting position, drawing the legs up tight to the chest and using the knees as a stable tripod. Shooters go through the course in teams of two to four; one person shoots while the others score and/or reset targets. All members of the squad shoot the lane before moving to the next station.
As stated earlier, the most critical part of field target shooting is accurately estimating the distance to each target. In flight airgun pellets have a tremendous arc in their trajectory. This arc makes it critical to correctly estimate the distance form the firing line to the field target; even a small miscalculation of only a yard or two can often result in a miss.
All shooters use scopes, and nearly all use their optics as range finders. Scope power is also highly variable, and while a common 4-16 zoom is a good entry level choice, it is not uncommon to find many scopes of 30 power or greater! To range find with a scope, the shooter turns the parallax objective housing back and forth until the desired target comes sharply into focus. By checking the distance markings on the bezel, the shooter should be able to tell the distance to the target. The next step is to adjust for the pellets trajectory by making changes to the elevation settings of the scope; very few shooters use "Kentucky windage" during the matches, preferring instead to change the scope and hold dead center of the "kill zone".
Although there are field target matches for both air pistol and air rifle, the rifle matches are currently the most popular. There are two basic classes of air rifles- the piston class and the open class. Any recoiling spring piston airguns can be used in the piston class, which is further broken down into standard piston category and unlimited piston category. The standard category is for guns as they come right out box the box with a retail price of under $600. The Beeman R11 air rifle was designed to be highly competitive in the class. Within the unlimited piston category anything that one can do to a spring piston airgun is acceptable.
The piston class is a great way for new shooters to become involve in the sport as a rifle, scope and mounts can often be purchased for less than $500. Even with this equipment it is possible to go out, have a great time, and still remain competitive within the class.
The open category includes all other airguns. This class houses the most technologically advanced equipment available today, including the new pre-charged pneumatic air rifles such as the Beeman Mako. The pre-charged guns shoot at the same velocities as a piston gun, but they offer one advantage - they are completely recoilless. This means that a shooter is able to see where they hit or missed, and make compensations for the next shot. Competitors are allowed to use whatever caliber of pellet they desire, although the majority choose .177 caliber. The reason for this are many; the smaller pellets are lighter so they shoot at higher velocities. This translates into a flatter trajectory for the shots at the 50 yard range. The smaller pellet also has another advantage over the larger calibers - when there is a reduced "kill zone", a smaller .177 caliber pellet can be farther off center and still score a hit.
Field target shooting was imported into the US from England, and was originally hosted stateside by only a handful of small clubs across the country. As more shooter joined the legions of devoted weekend "hunters", there appeared an need for a national organization to oversee the growth of the sport. Thus, the American Airgun Field Target Association (AAFTA) was born in 1987 to manage the sport. AAFTA has the responsibility of overseeing any rule changes, as well as hosting the annual National Field Target Championships. At this time only clubs are allowed to join AAFTA.
One of the pleasures of shooting a field target course is the lack of regimentation and equipment limitation. One only needs to follow the general guidelines to have an enjoyable day "hunting" with an airgun, without even having to pack a lunch! Give it a shot - you too will quickly become addicted!
by John Clark
Reprinted from the Beeman Precision Airgun Guide
September 7, 1980. The Russians were in Afghanistan. The country feared for the safety of the American hostages held captive in Iran. As the world was closely watching these events unfold, those involved in the shooting sports remember that infamous fall day as the birth date of the sport of field target shooting. Field Target shooting is a hunting simulation game. Matches are shot with magnum powered, ultra accurate airguns and the targets are life-sized silhouettes of typical airguns quarry - rabbits, squirrels, birds, and other small game.
The sport was born on a typical autumn day in Sussex, England. Despite the frigid, blustery conditions, over 100 shooters from all over the southern regions of the United Kingdom banded together to try their hand at the new game. The rules at the first match were deceptively simple; estimate the distance to the target, correct the scope settings to compensate for the trajectory of the lead airgun pellet, and shoot at a paper target stuck to the animal.
Today, the rules remain just as simple, but the participants are aided by technological breakthroughs undreamed of only a decade ago. There are thousands of enthusiastic airgunners participating in this sport from all four corners of the globe, but the hot bed of activity still remains in the United States and Great Britain.
Modern field targets are constructed from a heavy gauge steel, cut out of a solid sheet to represent a life-sized silhouette of typical small game that can be hunted with an airgun. These animals have a hole cut out in the appropriate "kill-zone", and a paddle with a bright orange disc fills the space behind this hole. The shooter's objective is to aim directly for the center of this disc; a direct hit will cause the paddle to rotate backwards and the entire animal will fall over "dead" with a satisfying clank. A miss will do nothing but cause grief for the shooter.
The modern competition target are designed so that only a direct hit will cause them to fall; a "split pellet", one striking both the edge of the steel target and the "kill zone" will not cause the target to fall. These animals can be easily reset by pulling the attached string. The size of the "kill zone" was originally two inches in diameter, but as the shooters became more proficient in the sport, and the equipment used increased in sophistication, the size was reduced to make for more challenging courses. In today's championship matches, it in not uncommon to see targets with a "kill zone" as small as 1/4 of an inch, leaving little margin for error.
Targets are placed at random distances from 10 yards out to a maximum of 55 yards; one of the challenges facing a shooter is to accurately estimate the range from the firing line to the target. Today's courses set the target animals in environments representative of their natural habitat. Many courses are laid out so that some of the birds may be up in trees, rabbits hiding in bushes, and squirrels "feeding" in the clearing across a stream bed. The only rule pertaining to target placement is that the "kill zone" must be completely visible to the shooter in at least one of the shooting positions, although it does not necessarily have to be the one preferred by the competitors!
Each time the target is hit and falls over scores one point; misses count for nothing. Targets are placed in lanes with one to three animals in each lane. These lanes are marked by posts to the right and left; Competitors must keep the muzzle between these posts at all times when on the firing line, a rule that turns some seemingly simple shots into ones that truly challenge the skills. A competitor may use any shooting position they desire, but the majority use the sitting position, drawing the legs up tight to the chest and using the knees as a stable tripod. Shooters go through the course in teams of two to four; one person shoots while the others score and/or reset targets. All members of the squad shoot the lane before moving to the next station.
As stated earlier, the most critical part of field target shooting is accurately estimating the distance to each target. In flight airgun pellets have a tremendous arc in their trajectory. This arc makes it critical to correctly estimate the distance form the firing line to the field target; even a small miscalculation of only a yard or two can often result in a miss.
All shooters use scopes, and nearly all use their optics as range finders. Scope power is also highly variable, and while a common 4-16 zoom is a good entry level choice, it is not uncommon to find many scopes of 30 power or greater! To range find with a scope, the shooter turns the parallax objective housing back and forth until the desired target comes sharply into focus. By checking the distance markings on the bezel, the shooter should be able to tell the distance to the target. The next step is to adjust for the pellets trajectory by making changes to the elevation settings of the scope; very few shooters use "Kentucky windage" during the matches, preferring instead to change the scope and hold dead center of the "kill zone".
Although there are field target matches for both air pistol and air rifle, the rifle matches are currently the most popular. There are two basic classes of air rifles- the piston class and the open class. Any recoiling spring piston airguns can be used in the piston class, which is further broken down into standard piston category and unlimited piston category. The standard category is for guns as they come right out box the box with a retail price of under $600. The Beeman R11 air rifle was designed to be highly competitive in the class. Within the unlimited piston category anything that one can do to a spring piston airgun is acceptable.
The piston class is a great way for new shooters to become involve in the sport as a rifle, scope and mounts can often be purchased for less than $500. Even with this equipment it is possible to go out, have a great time, and still remain competitive within the class.
The open category includes all other airguns. This class houses the most technologically advanced equipment available today, including the new pre-charged pneumatic air rifles such as the Beeman Mako. The pre-charged guns shoot at the same velocities as a piston gun, but they offer one advantage - they are completely recoilless. This means that a shooter is able to see where they hit or missed, and make compensations for the next shot. Competitors are allowed to use whatever caliber of pellet they desire, although the majority choose .177 caliber. The reason for this are many; the smaller pellets are lighter so they shoot at higher velocities. This translates into a flatter trajectory for the shots at the 50 yard range. The smaller pellet also has another advantage over the larger calibers - when there is a reduced "kill zone", a smaller .177 caliber pellet can be farther off center and still score a hit.
Field target shooting was imported into the US from England, and was originally hosted stateside by only a handful of small clubs across the country. As more shooter joined the legions of devoted weekend "hunters", there appeared an need for a national organization to oversee the growth of the sport. Thus, the American Airgun Field Target Association (AAFTA) was born in 1987 to manage the sport. AAFTA has the responsibility of overseeing any rule changes, as well as hosting the annual National Field Target Championships. At this time only clubs are allowed to join AAFTA.
One of the pleasures of shooting a field target course is the lack of regimentation and equipment limitation. One only needs to follow the general guidelines to have an enjoyable day "hunting" with an airgun, without even having to pack a lunch! Give it a shot - you too will quickly become addicted!
What is a Field Target Match Like?
Field target matches are fun and challenging. At the match you have the chance to test your shooting skills against other shooters. One of the best parts of field target is the chance you have to visit with other shooters. You meet new people and make a lot of friends as you attend more and more matches. You will meet some of the nicest people at field target matches. There are only suggestions in the AAFTA handbook on how a field target course should be set up; because of this, field target matches will vary from club-to-club and match-to-match. These variations keeps field target fresh and vibrant for the shooter (and the match director).
Field target matches are fun and challenging. At the match you have the chance to test your shooting skills against other shooters. One of the best parts of field target is the chance you have to visit with other shooters. You meet new people and make a lot of friends as you attend more and more matches. You will meet some of the nicest people at field target matches. There are only suggestions in the AAFTA handbook on how a field target course should be set up; because of this, field target matches will vary from club-to-club and match-to-match. These variations keeps field target fresh and vibrant for the shooter (and the match director).
The number of lanes setup for a match depends on the number of shooters expected to come to the match and how many shots are to be taken during the match. A course can have 5 to 25 lanes with one to four targets in each lane. Normally two shots are taken at each target. For example, a 60 shot match might be set up as one course with 3 targets in 10 lanes. Shooting two shots at each target gives you 60 shots. It could also be set up as two courses with 8 lanes, 7 of which have two targets and one lane with one target. With two shots at each target you have 60 shots. The difference between these two courses is that the first course can handle 30 shooters while the second can accommodate 48 shooters.
A larger match like a state, regional or national might consist of sub-matches that are held over the course of two or three days. This allows a higher number of shots during the match. These matches may consist of 80, 100, or even 150 shots! Typically the overall match is divided up into 2-3 sub-matches. Each of the sub-matches may be shot on a different course which provides the shooter with a lot of variety. In most bigger matches, the sub-matches are shot over the course of a weekend. The first match would be shot on Saturday morning, the second match on Saturday afternoon, and the third match on Sunday morning. The awards can then be handed out after lunch and everyone can head on home.
Every match is preceeded by sight-in and practice time. During this time shooters can verify the zero of their gun and get warmed up for the match. The practice is usually held in an open range area. Most clubs have practice targets set up for the shooters. These targets are typically set up at least every 5 yards from 10 to 55 yards. At local club matches the practice time is usually an hour or two prior to match time. At larger state, regional, and national matches the practice range may be opened for sight-in and practice. This allows those traveling a little more time to get their equipment just right.
After the practice time is done the match is ready to begin. Before heading out to the course, the match director holds a shooter/safety meeting. The meeting is used to inform the match participants about the match and remind everyone to be safe. Things typically covered are shoot rules, safety instructions, course setup, recording scores, and anything else the shooters might need to know about the match. With the meeting complete you are ready to head out to the course with airgun, pellets, and scorecard in hand.
Field target matches are started like a shotgun start in golf. Everyone is assigned to a starting lane. The starting lane is usually designated on the scorecard. Each shooter is squaded with one to three other shooters. The other shooters help score and reset targets for the shooter. Once all the squad members reach their starting lane, they introduce themselves (if they don't already know each other) and decide the order they are going to shoot. This order may stay the same for the whole match or they may decide to alternate at each lane. It is up to the squad to decide what order to shoot. However there are certain requirements when doing this such as hunter must shoot before WFTF/Open. Each shooter in a squad takes their turn and shoots all the targets in the lane. If there are multiple targets in the lane then the targets are shot in the order dictated by the match director and/or score card, for instance left to right or near to far. Once everyone in the squad shoots the lane, they all move to the next lane. After the squad shoots the last lane on the course, they move back to lane one and continue shooting the rest of the course until they reach their last lane. At that point the match is complete and the shooters can start thinking about alibis for the shots they missed.
Once the match is complete and all the shooters have turned in the scorecards, the scores are tallied, protests are checked, and the courses cleaned up. Match awards are then handed out and the match is over. This is time to chit-chat with your other airgun friends and a great time to moan and lament over the few misses that kept you out of the winners circle or to discuss other important airgun-related issues before saying good-bye and heading home (all the while looking forward to the next match).
How Do Field Targets Work?
The whole idea of field target is to have a target that falls over when the hit zone is hit and doesn't fall over when it is missed. The target face has a hole cut in it where the hit zone is located. Behind the hit zone and the target face is a paddle. The paddle is the thing hit when a pellet successfully passes through the hit zone. The paddle is part of an assembly that keeps the target face in an upright position as well. When the paddle is shot, it falls backwards and allows the faceplate to fall. The mechanical connection between the paddle assembly and the face plate is called the sear.
There are a lot of ways to design the target sear. Below are three common designs. This is by no means the only way to design it, however it will give you the general idea of how it can work.
The whole idea of field target is to have a target that falls over when the hit zone is hit and doesn't fall over when it is missed. The target face has a hole cut in it where the hit zone is located. Behind the hit zone and the target face is a paddle. The paddle is the thing hit when a pellet successfully passes through the hit zone. The paddle is part of an assembly that keeps the target face in an upright position as well. When the paddle is shot, it falls backwards and allows the faceplate to fall. The mechanical connection between the paddle assembly and the face plate is called the sear.
There are a lot of ways to design the target sear. Below are three common designs. This is by no means the only way to design it, however it will give you the general idea of how it can work.
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Gravity Fall Cajun Target
This design uses the weight of the paddle falling against the rear bar to make the face fall rearward. Gravity is the main force making the face fall. The sear is engaged only on a miss. The target face is moves backward and locks up against the paddle arm, thus the target face isn't allowed to fall.
This design uses the weight of the paddle falling against the rear bar to make the face fall rearward. Gravity is the main force making the face fall. The sear is engaged only on a miss. The target face is moves backward and locks up against the paddle arm, thus the target face isn't allowed to fall.
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Spring Loaded Stoutenburg Target
This design uses a spring attached to the target face to make the face fall rearward. This makes the face fall very fast and flat. The paddle arm is connected to the target face via a small arm. This arm makes up the sear for this target is an over-the-center linkage instead of a sliding metal sear as in the above targets. When the target face is hit, the face pushes down on the paddle arm through the small connecting arm. On a hit, the paddle arm move rearward and releases the sear.
This design uses a spring attached to the target face to make the face fall rearward. This makes the face fall very fast and flat. The paddle arm is connected to the target face via a small arm. This arm makes up the sear for this target is an over-the-center linkage instead of a sliding metal sear as in the above targets. When the target face is hit, the face pushes down on the paddle arm through the small connecting arm. On a hit, the paddle arm move rearward and releases the sear.
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Spring Loaded Troyer Target
Crow target Back of crow target Crow target in killed position
This design uses a spring attached to the target face to make the face fall rearward. The sear in this design is made up of the small post extending from the target face above the hit zone and the top of the paddle. The spring attached to the target face keeps the sear engaged until the paddle is hit which will then move rearward and disengage the sear. The target face can then fall. The target shown is made from wood but the design can also be used for an all metal target.
Crow target Back of crow target Crow target in killed position
This design uses a spring attached to the target face to make the face fall rearward. The sear in this design is made up of the small post extending from the target face above the hit zone and the top of the paddle. The spring attached to the target face keeps the sear engaged until the paddle is hit which will then move rearward and disengage the sear. The target face can then fall. The target shown is made from wood but the design can also be used for an all metal target.
Make your own Field Target
By Brad Troyer
Whether you are starting a new club or wanting some inexpensive practice targets, this wood design Field Target is a great way to go. Building these field targets only requires a few common tools found in just about any home. The design has proven to be both reliable and durable. The basic design was first given to me by Rodney Boyce. I modified it slightly by adding a spring and tension screw adjustment.
Described below are the materials, tools, and process I use to make my targets. You will find that as you make one or more of them you will find different/better ways to make them. You will be able to use other tools and parts other than what I use and specify. I encourage you to experiment with the design. If you come up with unique or better designs, let me know.
I only buy the hardware for my targets. I get the face plate plywood and base from scrap wood I found at a local woodworking shop and fencing company. This helps to keep the cost way down. With the hardware used for these targets, I can make two targets for under $10. The parts can be bought at any home improvement or hardware store. I also bought the steel plate used for a paddle from a local welding shop. They had a lot of scrap metal laying around and they don't charge me much for the small amount I use.
I use an industrial washer to surround the kill zone. Be careful when buying these. A 1 1/2" washer has an inside diameter of about 1 5/8". I usually get one size smaller washer for what ever size of kill zone I want; i.e., for a 1" kill zone I get a 7/8" washer. These washers can be bought at a hardware store, local nut and bolt shop, or an industrial supply house.
Parts List (one target)
1 - 2" Utility Hinge
1 - 2 1/2" Tee Hinge
1 - 1/4" x 2" Hex Bolt
1 - 1/4" Hex Nut
1 - Industrial Washer (sized for kill zone)
4 - 5/8" #6 Wood Screws
1 - 1" #8 Phillips Sheet Metal Screw
1 - 1 7/8" 0.35 Spring
1 - 2' Reset Cord (nylon or Dacron fishing line)
1 - U Nail
2 - Eyelet Screws
1 - 2" x 2 1/2" x 1/8" Steel Plate
1 - Piece 3/4" Plywood (face plate & paddle arm)
1 - 2" x 6" x 12" Pressure Treated Lumber (target base)
Suggested Tools
Power Drill
Wood & Metal Drill Bits
Saber Saw
Metal File
Screw Driver
Hack Saw
Sandpaper
By Brad Troyer
Whether you are starting a new club or wanting some inexpensive practice targets, this wood design Field Target is a great way to go. Building these field targets only requires a few common tools found in just about any home. The design has proven to be both reliable and durable. The basic design was first given to me by Rodney Boyce. I modified it slightly by adding a spring and tension screw adjustment.
Described below are the materials, tools, and process I use to make my targets. You will find that as you make one or more of them you will find different/better ways to make them. You will be able to use other tools and parts other than what I use and specify. I encourage you to experiment with the design. If you come up with unique or better designs, let me know.
I only buy the hardware for my targets. I get the face plate plywood and base from scrap wood I found at a local woodworking shop and fencing company. This helps to keep the cost way down. With the hardware used for these targets, I can make two targets for under $10. The parts can be bought at any home improvement or hardware store. I also bought the steel plate used for a paddle from a local welding shop. They had a lot of scrap metal laying around and they don't charge me much for the small amount I use.
I use an industrial washer to surround the kill zone. Be careful when buying these. A 1 1/2" washer has an inside diameter of about 1 5/8". I usually get one size smaller washer for what ever size of kill zone I want; i.e., for a 1" kill zone I get a 7/8" washer. These washers can be bought at a hardware store, local nut and bolt shop, or an industrial supply house.
Parts List (one target)
1 - 2" Utility Hinge
1 - 2 1/2" Tee Hinge
1 - 1/4" x 2" Hex Bolt
1 - 1/4" Hex Nut
1 - Industrial Washer (sized for kill zone)
4 - 5/8" #6 Wood Screws
1 - 1" #8 Phillips Sheet Metal Screw
1 - 1 7/8" 0.35 Spring
1 - 2' Reset Cord (nylon or Dacron fishing line)
1 - U Nail
2 - Eyelet Screws
1 - 2" x 2 1/2" x 1/8" Steel Plate
1 - Piece 3/4" Plywood (face plate & paddle arm)
1 - 2" x 6" x 12" Pressure Treated Lumber (target base)
Suggested Tools
Power Drill
Wood & Metal Drill Bits
Saber Saw
Metal File
Screw Driver
Hack Saw
Sandpaper
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This first step is to cut out the kill zone and face plate. I like to use pictures of real animals that I get off of the computer or out of magazines. I copy them, cut them out, and glue them to the plywood using rubber cement. In choosing a target face, keep in mind that a kill zone paddle will be behind the target face. You want to make sure that the kill zone placement will allow the paddle to be behind the target face and not visible when the target is complete. I would also recommend that you make two copies so that you have a copy to refer to when you paint the face plate later on.
Once the animal stencil is glued to the plywood, I like to drill out the kill zone. I usually place the industrial washer on the face plate in the appropriate area and trace the kill zone. Next I use a wood drill or hole saw to cut out the kill zone. I usually make the hole a bit bigger than the washer size, but you don't have too. If you don't have large wood drill bits, you can use the Saber Saw to cut the hole. With the kill zone cut, next cut out the face plate with a Saber saw. |
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Now mount the kill zone washer around the kill zone on the face plate. I drill two holes in the washers near the edges on opposite sides of the washer. I then mount it to the face plate with two 5/8" # 6 wood screws.
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The face plate can now be mounted to the base using the 2" hinge. Leave about 1 1/2" in front of the target face for stakes.
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Next, cut the paddle arm. I usually use some left over 3/4" plywood for the arm. I cut it to 1 1/2" or 2" width (depending on the kill zone size). To cut the height, place the arm next to the face plate and draw a line where the top of the kill zone and paddle are meet.
The paddle arm can now be mounted to the base behind the face plate using the 2 1/2" Tee hinge. Leave about 1/2" between the paddle arm and face plate. Make sure the paddle arm is centered with the kill zone hole. |
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Mount the metal paddle to the paddle arm. You may need to cut the metal to the required size for the paddle. I usually use my Saber saw and a bi-metal blade to cut the paddle but a simple hack saw will work too. I like to make the paddle 1" higher and 1/2" wider than the kill zone. I use two 5/8 # 6 wood screws to secure the paddle to the paddle arm. Make sure that about 1/8"-1/4" of the paddle extends above the paddle arm. The top of the paddle are is part of the sear mechanism that stops the target from falling on a missed shot.
If you don't want to use a metal plate for a paddle, a large washer and bolt can be used instead. I like to use a large 1/2" washer and a 5/8" X 1" carriage bolt. You will need to make the paddle are a bit longer and file a flat spot in the washer. Drill a 5/8" hole in the paddle arm that is centered with the kill zone. Install the washer with the bolt and position the flat spot at the top of the paddle arm before tightening the nut. |
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The next thing to do is install the 1/4" hex bolt that makes up the sear mechanism. This is the most important step in the process so be careful and take your time. Set the target face and paddle arm so that they are vertical. Use a pencil and set it flat on top of the paddle and make sure it is perpendicular to the paddle arm. Make a mark where the pencil touches the target face. Measure down 1/16" and make another mark. This is where you will drill your hole for the hex bolt. Drill the hole with a 3/16" drill bit. This bit will leave the hole small enough that you can tap the hole with the hex bolt. As you drill, tilt the drill upward, away from the to of the paddle so that when the hex bolt is installed, it will be angled slightly upward. Be careful not to drill all the way through the front of the target face.
Now take the hex bolt and screw it into the hole. Once it is tight, cut off the head of the hex bolt. I like to remove the bolt from the target face to cut it off. I also like to cut off about 1/4" of the threads so that the threads don't extend out of the face plate (this isn't necessary for proper target operation however).
Use a metal file and some fine sand paper to smooth the edge on the paddle top and the hex bolt where the head was cut off. Burs and rough edges may make the target malfunction.
Now take the hex bolt and screw it into the hole. Once it is tight, cut off the head of the hex bolt. I like to remove the bolt from the target face to cut it off. I also like to cut off about 1/4" of the threads so that the threads don't extend out of the face plate (this isn't necessary for proper target operation however).
Use a metal file and some fine sand paper to smooth the edge on the paddle top and the hex bolt where the head was cut off. Burs and rough edges may make the target malfunction.
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Now install an sear adjustment screw into the paddle arm. Use the 1" #8 Phillips sheet metal screw and screw it into the paddle arm about 1/2" below the paddle and off to one side. This screw will adjust how far the paddle will move down the hex bolt toward the target face. Set the screw so that the paddle is completely seated on the hex bolt, just past the end of the hex bolt. This is just a gross adjustment, the final adjustment can be made later.
Now drill the hole in the face plate that will allow the reset string to pass through it and be attached to the paddle arm. I like to position it off center of the kill zone. I usually position the hole so that it will be on the opposite side of the sear adjustment screw on the paddle arm. I put the hole about 1" below the kill zone washer, but it depends on the size of the target. You want the hole to be above the mid point of the paddle arm if possible.
Once the hole is drilled into the target face, install a U nail on the paddle arm. This is where the reset string will be attached to the paddle arm. A finishing nail can be used if you don't want have any U nail. Just hammer the finishing nail in a bit and bend it over so that you can tie the reset string to it. The nail should be positioned at the same height as the hole on the target face when the target face and paddle arm are vertical. Try to keep the nail above the mid point of the paddle arm, this will make resetting the target easier.
Now install the reset cord. I like to use Dacron 50 lb. test fishing line. This is rather expensive but very strong. You can use nylon cord also. Tie one end to the paddle arm an feed the other end through the target face. Tie a loop in the free end. This is where you will attach the reset string.
Now drill the hole in the face plate that will allow the reset string to pass through it and be attached to the paddle arm. I like to position it off center of the kill zone. I usually position the hole so that it will be on the opposite side of the sear adjustment screw on the paddle arm. I put the hole about 1" below the kill zone washer, but it depends on the size of the target. You want the hole to be above the mid point of the paddle arm if possible.
Once the hole is drilled into the target face, install a U nail on the paddle arm. This is where the reset string will be attached to the paddle arm. A finishing nail can be used if you don't want have any U nail. Just hammer the finishing nail in a bit and bend it over so that you can tie the reset string to it. The nail should be positioned at the same height as the hole on the target face when the target face and paddle arm are vertical. Try to keep the nail above the mid point of the paddle arm, this will make resetting the target easier.
Now install the reset cord. I like to use Dacron 50 lb. test fishing line. This is rather expensive but very strong. You can use nylon cord also. Tie one end to the paddle arm an feed the other end through the target face. Tie a loop in the free end. This is where you will attach the reset string.
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Next install the tension spring. Install one eyelet screw into the target face about 1/2"-3/4" above the bottom and 3/4" to one side of the paddle arm. The opening should be facing upward when installed. Install the 1 7/8" 0.32 spring into the eyelet screw and install another eyelet screw on the free end of the spring. Now set the paddle arm and target face in the down position. Pull the spring and eyelet screw back to the rear of the target base. Mark where the eyelet contacts the target base. Now install the second eyelet screw at the mark on the target base. The opening on this eyelet screw should face rearward. Now install the free end of the spring on the open eyelet screw . You may want to turn the eyelet screw to make the installation easier. The trick here is to position the eyelet screw on the base so that there is no tension on the spring when the target has fallen. Also, don't position the target face eyelet screw too high as that will make the spring tension greater and make the target harder to reset. The spring is meant only to pull the target face back enough to make it fall over.
Now drill some holes in the target base for staking the target down. I use 12" spikes for this purpose and I drill 1/2" holes for them. I use two in the rear and one in the front of the target.
Now drill some holes in the target base for staking the target down. I use 12" spikes for this purpose and I drill 1/2" holes for them. I use two in the rear and one in the front of the target.
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Now you are ready to test the target. Adjust the sear adjust screw (on the paddle arm ) until you can trip the target by hand with a pen or pencil. I like to use an old Daisy pump gun for testing. With three pumps it will generate about 300 fps. When the target falls over with three pumps, the sear adjustment is done. With the sear adjusted, try shooting the target with an airgun at about 10 yards. Shoot the paddle and make sure it falls over. Also shoot the washer around the kill zone and make sure it doesn't fall over with a miss.
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The target is basically complete except for painting. Typically, the paddle is painted Dayglow Orange. A white base coat is nice as it makes the orange very bright. The face plate can be painted any color you want, typically a color similar to the natural animal color is used. I spray paint the base color and then add the details with some black and white latex paint.
This target design can be used with just about any animal face plate that you can imagine. Click here for some of my target face designs that you can use for your targets.
This target design can be used with just about any animal face plate that you can imagine. Click here for some of my target face designs that you can use for your targets.
